Flavorful cheese for nearly a century

Henning family stresses quality while developing new flavors

By: Chalie Mathews, Herald Times Reporter

TOWN OF SCHLESWIG — Ann Meyer couldn't resist buying a half-pound bag of warm cheddar curds last Monday morning.

"Hopefully, we won't snack too much on the way home," said the New Holstein mother.

She wasn't talking about the squeaky bite-size cheese chunks but the mini-bricks of pepper jack, Colby, and medium and extra sharp cheddar Meyer purchased at Henning's Wisconsin Cheese, 20101 Point Creek Road, for a First Communion party in April.

Another satisfied customer for the business founded in 1914 and one of just a few cheese producers left in Manitowoc County.

Otto and Norma Henning didn't sell "Mango Fire" or "Habanero Jack" or "Chipotle Cheddar" nearly a century ago. But third-generation owners Kerry Henning, a master cheesemaker, his brother, Kert, and sister, Kay Henning Schmitz, now sell dozens of varieties to retail customers and about 200 grocery and specialty stores nationwide.

That includes Central Market, a gourmet grocery store chain based in Texas. It's not unusual for the Hennings to ship via refrigerated truck 300-pound "wheels" to the Lone Star State.

Kert explained slices off large wheels have a "true cheese flavor" with Kay adding there's a certain "wow" factor for the customer who has a one- or two-pound hunk made from the mammoth whole.

In fact, it was a 2,000-pound cheese from Hennings that helped jump-start March Madness at a Hy-Vee grocery store in Madison. Bucky Badger was among the cheese carvings created by Sarah "The Cheese Lady" Kaufman.

Distinctive flavors

Kerry explained that different processes and equipment would be used to make varieties of Swiss cheese versus cheddar, their focus.

But his advanced education has helped Henning's develop multi-award winning flavors including its Heritage Cheddar line including cheese made with various fruits including cranberries, blueberries, and apples as well as peppercorn, olives and caramel.

Kerry said several years of trial and error were necessary to get just the right consistency and flavor.

Kert explained that winning over customers often involves making samples available as well as developing recipe cards.

"White cheddar cheese blended perfectly with blueberries. Suggestions: a great addition to your holiday meal. Slice thinly and add to your bagel or crepe," reads the description of Henning's Blueberry Cobbler Heritage Cheddar on its Web site, www.henningscheese.com.

"We are creating more unique flavors," said Kert, who serves as vice president-retail sales. "The average American eats about 30 pounds of cheese each year … a European about 70 pounds."

Kay, company treasurer, said the family's business appreciates the focus on heritage and quality by the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board in its advertising campaigns promoting the dairy industry and its various components.

The Hennings said Baby Boomers are looking for tasteful cheeses and wines and their family's constant focus on quality serves the business well.

On the fiscal side, Kay appreciates the computer revolution and how it has made it easier and quicker to determine appropriate payments to their network of about 30 dairy farmers with about 120,000 pounds of milk tanker trucked to the plant daily. It takes about 10 pounds of milk to make one pound of cheese.

The trio's father, Everett, may be retired from production but he comes to the factory nearly every day when he's at home. Last week he was in Vermont checking out equipment at a cheese plant that had closed down.

Historical pieces might end up in the museum portion of the business flanking the retail store attracting customers looking for those warm curds or lower prices compared to the grocery store on, for example, 13-ounce packages of tomato basil or garlic and dill cheddar.

Those coming into the retail store in the southwest corner of Manitowoc County, about five miles from Kiel, will find more than Henning's cheese.

The store also sells Von Stiehl and Cedar Creek wines, Miesfeld's sausages and meat sticks, Pine River and Sugar Brook cheese spreads, Epicurean butters, Parker John's frozen pizzas, Cedar Crest ice cream and cheese varieties it doesn't produce like Swiss, havarti, limburger and muenster.

The fourth generation already is involved with Kert's daughter, Rebekah, and Kay's daughter, Mindy, part of the operations.

The store and museum are open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., Monday-Friday and 8 a.m. to noon, Saturday.

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